Pre-Fall Collection Sewing Guide

This blog post is meant to be a guide to sewing DIY kits from the August collection. Many times, when you make your Madalynne DIY kit, the product listing has been removed because it sold out, or it has been a long time. If the DIY kit is a variation of the original pattern, you may not remember what the variation was or how to do it. Don’t panic. This blog post will briefly outlines and shows pictures of each kit. Please keep in mind that each kit can be used to make many different patterns depending on what fabrics and trims you need. So even though our samples were made a certain way, there may be additional trims included to allow you to make different variations. If you still have questions after reading this blog post, don’t hesitate to email hello@madalynne.com. I will do my best to help you understand how each kit was intended to be made.

The is usually the case, the Rey underwire bra from Madalynne’s book, Sew Lingerie, was the star of this collection. One of the best parts about this DIY kit is its versatility. There are so many ways to sew it, and we made a few versions for the product images. One of them is a variation used a pre-pleated deadstock fabric. In the video below, I walk through how to make the changes using that pre-pleated fabric. In previous sewing guides, I broke down exactly which fabrics were used and where—but since this DIY includes several variations, listing them all could get a bit overwhelming. Instead, I’ll focus on highlighting just the variation.

This is such a fun variation of the Annabelle waspie!

One: First, spray baste corset mesh to the colored stretch mesh. Then, cut all pieces except for the center back. After, cut the center back out of off coutil.

Two: Cut two strips of non stretch gallon lace. The length should be the slightly longer than the waspie. The width depends on how wide you want the lace overlay to be. Sew the two strips together. Press seams open and then lay on top (right side) of all Annabelle pattern pieces except for the center back. The seam on the lace strip should align with the waistline. Pin in place. Then cut the lace strips for each pattern piece.

Three: With right sides together, sew all panels along the vertical seams except for center back (please note that I did not sew down the lace strips prior to this step, but if you prefer to, you can). Then, sew the boning channels as per the instructions. For this DIY kit, the boning channels were underwire channeling.

Once boning channels are attached, lay two strips of ribbon on the right side of the corset. They should align with the waistline. Sew down with a straight stitch (bar tack) right next to each vertical seam. So the ribbon is ‘free floating’ in between the vertical seams. Tie in a bow at the center front.

Once the ribbon is attached, then sew the center back panel and attach the boning channels.

*Because the Annabelle is sheer, plastic boning is included in the DIY kits to prevent boning from showing through. 

Four: Proceed with sewing the Annabelle per the instructions. Please note that the binding for the top and bottom edges is ⅜” fold over elastic, which is usually used for lingerie. Since this Annabelle variation is being styled with a Rey underwire bra and Millie panty, lingerie elastic was used as binding.

Rey Underwire Bra: This is a variation of the underwire bra from Madalynne’s book, Sew Lingerie, that has exposed underwire casing and uses the frame of the Godiva bodysuit for the frame and back band.

Top Bra Cup: One layer of non stretch embroidered tulle lace.
Lower Bra Cups: One layer of printed mesh, one layer of colored mesh, and one layer of sheer cup lining (3 layers total).
Center Front Frame: One layer of printed mesh, one layer of colored mesh, and one layer of sheer cup lining (3 layers total).
Side Front Frame: One layer non stretch embroidered tulle lace.
Back Band: One layer of printed stretch mesh and one layer of colored mesh.

*Watch sew along for the Rey on YouTube. 

Tonika Panty: You could use several Madalynne patterns for the matching thong. The panty in the photos is the Tonika, but the Buffy or Odessa, or Millie from Sew Lingerie could be used.

Front + Back Panty: One layer of printed stretch mesh and one layer of colored mesh.

I love the Brooklyn Bralette and Barker Panty from Sew Lingerie. It’s cute and everyday. The DIY kits for this style follow with the instructions outlined in the book, with one variation: the panty. In the book, the leg openings and waistline are finished with picot elastic, but the kit for this collection uses fold over elastic for the leg openings. To achieve these finishes, you can apply the sewing techniques described for the Brooklyn pattern to the Barker.

*Watch the sew along for the Brooklynn Bralette + Barker Panty

Monet Merry Widow come with two options –  a longline bra (as pictured) and a the original Monet Merry Widow long version. For the longline version, click here to read the blog post that details the alterations.  For the original long version, there are no alterations. Please note that we pieced the embroidered tulle lace together along the center front so that it was wide enough to fit on the pattern piece.

*Watch the sew along for the Monet Merry Widow

The Madalynne X Simplicity 9779 dress is such a fun style to transition from summer to fall. And the colors of this printed cotton poplin are perfect too! Please note that for this DIY Kit, there is no lining fabric included as the main fabric is meant to be the lining fabric as well. We also used lingerie hook and eye tape for the center front.

*Watch the sew along for the Madalynne X Simplicity 9779 dress